Your way of filling joints

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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby hughbrien » Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:21 pm

I find it depends where the hole/seam needs to be fixed. If it's in an easy to sand area, then perhaps super glue, usually the good quality thick kind. However if it's a hard to reach ejector pin mark, intake seam etc i will use mr surfacer as it's easy to sand. Also there's the trick of applying the mr surfacer, letting it dry a little, then wiping gently over the area with a metho soaked cottonbud to wipe up the excess. I'm finding this trick doesn't work so well anymore as my mr surfacer has dried out a little and not as 'fluid'. I've added metho to my bottle before, left it overnight, and given it a good stir to thin it out slightly.

Whatever method i use to fill a gap, i then apply some Citadel silver paint (Mithril Silver i think) over it to check it has been filled completely. The silver paint makes this easy to see. Also this paint is rather thick (and thickens further over time) so fills any minor gap that is left. When the paint is dry i sand it back for a perfect smooth surface.

Also don't forget a round hole can be filled with stretched sprue, using the plastic cement will melt/weld this in place filling all gaps. Then when dry snip off the excess and sand smooth.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby RAAFBrat » Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:01 pm

I second the white wood glue - Aquadhere I've always called it. I've only ever used it on it's own as you can apply it straight from the bottle, smooth it with a fingertip & wipe off excess. Being water-based clean-up is easy with a damp cloth or tissue. Also handy as an improvised porthole, spotlight lens, transparency, water-puddle etc as it dries clear. Oh & as it's a glue it also strengthens your joint. :)
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby snibs » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:29 pm

Hi all.
Another technique I use is scraping sprue with a stanley knife and mix the shavings with liquid poly, can make it as thick or thin as you like and it doesn't shrink that I have ever noticed. The only negative with this is it can get stringy as it dries out which is pretty quick but a drop or two more poly cement and go again. It dries quick and is easy to sand. I still use Tamiya putty for minor jobs and auto spray putty used with a brush is great for finishing, I have been using Alclad grey primer with a brush and had great results, bit thinner than auto putty.
Cheers from Mick.
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