Your way of filling joints

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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Creative Models Australia » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:12 am

Cyno is perfect for joints, what do you think we build our RC planes with? And I have jets that do over 350 MPH, yes MPH, NOT kph
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Calum » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:18 am

What I like about using accelerator is the super glue is easier to sand for a while. Not sure what this “bubbling” of the CA glue is as I've never seen it myself. I still reckon it's the best seam eliminator you can use. And if you sand it within a few minutes of setting it’s not that hard.

Te only problem I’ve had with accelerator is when it goes off (it turns a urine colour) it won’t set the SA instantly and turns the plastic a bit gooey (is this the bubbling?). I’ve learnt to decant the accelerator into a small bottle and ditch it hen it goes yellow

CA is brittle I agree but sometimes you need the instant setting and strength it offers. Normal plastic glues don’t have the strength to hold really warped plastic bits in extreme cases. But I have had the experience where I’ve dropped the kit and had bits shatter of it though.

I've also used 2 part epoxy glues like Araldite from time to time with limited success for large structural joints (as opposed to filling seams).

I do want to try missing with talc as I've heard many others say this works well. A guy on the net I’ve seen also mixing some dark pigment with the talc so you can see where the CA has filled. I’m keen to try that as well.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Creative Models Australia » Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:05 am

Calum,

The softening of the plastic is due to the new formulae of accelorater, being in the pressure can. The old pump bottle and reill is the best and doesnt affect anything.

The bubbeling. Dollip some thick or thin zap on your bench and spray it, and see what happenes. The CA will crystalise and bubble and will have some air holes in it.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Mick Clarke » Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:32 pm

For minor or fine lines, I use what is ofteb used "white out, tip-ex, white out". It flows into the gaps, dries quickly, rubs down lovely with wet and dry and is cheap, last for ages and you can get it just about anywhere. Larger gaps I use auto putty or miliput.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Calum » Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:06 am

Creative Models Australia wrote:Calum,

The softening of the plastic is due to the new formulae of accelorater, being in the pressure can. The old pump bottle and reill is the best and doesnt affect anything.

The bubbeling. Dollip some thick or thin zap on your bench and spray it, and see what happenes. The CA will crystalise and bubble and will have some air holes in it.


I've never had the spray stuff, just the stuff in the bottle which I apply with a an old brush or cotton bud. I aso use water and sand immediately after as the CA stays soft ish but soon dries hard and then can be re-scribed.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby Nigel Bunker » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:03 am

Don't forget that if you use accelerator on superglue, the joint is not as strong as if the superglue is left to cure by itself.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby B.T.M. » Sun Jan 23, 2011 11:06 am

After reading all the great ways to solve this problem, trying most, and adding a comment on the nomad, a solution came back to mind.Just by using EXTERIOR PVA woodworking glue mixed with talcom powder used in resin.You can mix it as stiff as you need and any excess can be wiped off with a damp cloth.DO not wet as as that effects the pva.
Down side is that it takes 24 hrs to fully cure.But afterwards can be wet and dry sanded and painted with no effect.
In the past without the talc I have used it to fill cabin windows on both aircraft and ships.

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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby StevenMac » Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:10 pm

For large gaps, joint strengthening, or repairs use Rapid Fix/Maveric Bond etc.

It's like superglue that works like a thread lock:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt2elvwNFqo
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby TiG » Wed May 04, 2011 10:02 am

I find a bit of Citadel (Games Workshop) "Green Stuff" two part putty works a treat on most gaps. $14 for a pack last time I checked. A bit of vaseline mixed in allows the putty to be more pliable, and will easily be trimmed down with a scalpel, or sanded when left to set overnight. The green colour allows easy identification of 'bogged' areas too. Great stuff for scratchbuilding bits and pieces also.
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Re: Your way of filling joints

Postby David E » Wed May 04, 2011 12:37 pm

Picked up a tube of auto spot putty at Burson's for $20, enough to last a lifetime. It's a bit "hotter" than other fillers and smellier but works well on small & large gaps. Also bought some "magic sculpt" 2 part (like milliput but cheaper and a little better) off ebay for bigger jobs.

Lots of good ideas here, like painting I thing it's a case of trying a method and finding one that works for you.
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